Syukriah Rusydi: Weaving Heritage and Vision into Global Fashion

In the glittering, trend-driven world of international fashion, it's rare to stand out by staying true to one's roots. But Acehnese designer Syukriah Rusydi has done just that, captivating audiences and garnering accolades whilst championing traditional craftsmanship and modest fashion.

Her recent triumph at Moscow Fashion Week is a testament to her unique vision and unwavering dedication to her heritage. In a significant milestone, Syukriah brought a collection featuring intricately woven fabrics from the Baduy tribe of West Java to the Moscow runway.

It was a choice that resonated with both its cultural significance and practical considerations. For Syukriah, this was more than a fashion showcase.

‘As the only designer from Indonesia, I felt responsible for introducing Indonesian art and culture to the world,’ she explained.

Her moment on the international stage follows her studies in the Australia Awards Short Course on International Business Readiness - A course for the Fashion and Textiles Sector at Queensland University of Technology in 2017. There, she studied the business side of fashion, including marketing, target audience identification and global competitiveness. 

The course was an opportunity to focus on the internationalisation of the fashion business, covering branding, market entry strategies and sustainability. Syukriah gained insights into storytelling and networking and learned from fellow fashion professionals from diverse backgrounds, broadening her perspectives and building valuable connections.

These experiences complemented her technical skills and equipped her to build her label, Reborn29, into a globally competitive brand. Furthermore, her attendance in the Short Course led to a business partnership in which Reborn29 products are sold in Australia.

An Unexpected Path into the Fashion Industry

Syukriah's journey into the world of fashion hasn’t been straightforward. Born in Banda Aceh, her childhood passion was sketching and designing. She initially aimed to study fine arts but yielded to her parents' wishes and studied architecture instead, a decision that would later shape her design philosophy in unexpected ways.

Her first foray into the world of fashion was entering competitions in the early 2000s, where she would travel to Jakarta to showcase her work. The initial losses in the competitions only fuelled her determination to do more. In those early years, she explored how to incorporate aesthetics and embroidery from Aceh into modern design, honing her skills. In 2011, Syukriah launched her own brand, Reborn29, with a focus on ready-to-wear pieces with an inclusive mix-and-match concept designed to be worn by everyone.

‘Fashion is a form of art with which I can express myself,’ she said.

Through Reborn29, Syukriah attended respected events such as Fashion Week in Kuala Lumpur, Paris and Istanbul. Reborn29 products are also in high demand at Paragon Mall Singapore, sold in the D2-i store alongside other Indonesian designers. 

The presence of Baduy weaving in Syukriah's collection for Moscow Fashion Week not only aligned with Reborn29's classic aesthetic but also highlighted the fabric’s affordability and export potential. Baduy weaving, crafted manually with hand-spun cotton yarn, is not merely material but a symbol of life, balance and deep spirituality. Syukriah’s designs, described as ‘simple yet stage-worthy ready-to-wear’, resonated with an international audience seeking both style and substance. She immediately landed business deals with international buyers who handle modest fashion, including those from Kuwait and Turkey. 

Initially, Syukriah had explored Acehnese weaving, a would-be tribute to her hometown. However, inconsistencies in availability and production capacity made it less viable for international markets. On the other hand, Baduy textiles were more suitable for the fast-paced export industry, with reasonable pricing and timely delivery.

‘In terms of export readiness, Baduy fabric surpasses other regional textiles,’ she said. Furthermore, Reborn29’s design aesthetic, which often features plain pieces, aligned perfectly with the geometric and checkered motifs of Baduy fabric.

Syukriah said she would continue to advocate for the development of Indonesian weaving, highlighting the need for government support to improve production and marketing, ensuring a sustainable future for the traditional art.

Balancing Cultural Values and Personal Expression

Syukriah's background as a woman from Aceh indeed plays a pivotal role in her design philosophy. Aceh, known for its strict adherence to Islamic values, presents a unique context for a fashion designer. Syukriah's personal style leans towards more daring and revealing designs, but she acknowledges the responsibility that comes with representing her culture on national and international platforms.

‘As an Acehnese woman, I feel a responsibility to bring a positive image and honour to my culture,’ she said.

The awareness has shaped her approach to modest fashion, where Syukriah strives to create clothing that is both respectful and stylish. She aims to prove that modest fashion doesn’t have to be boring, that it can be simple, edgy and attention-grabbing. For her, the challenge lies in finding a balance between cultural values, personal expression and universal appeal. 

Alongside her cultural background, Syukriah's education in architecture significantly influences her design process. She believes that architectural design and fashion design share a common scientific basis. Her architectural training taught her to focus on initial concepts, functionality, aesthetics, structure, proportion and harmony. Her systematic thinking and problem-solving skills, honed through architectural studies, enable her to approach design challenges creatively and logically.

After earning her architectural degree, she further strengthened her education in fashion. She studied pattern making at ESMOD Jakarta in 2004-2005, mastering the technical aspects of garment construction.

Her hope for Indonesian fashion SMEs is that they will become more globally competitive whilst retaining their cultural identity. She envisions SMEs that are digitally literate, capable of crafting compelling product stories and equipped with strong business strategies. 

For aspiring designers, especially those considering studying abroad, Syukriah emphasises the importance of overcoming fear and embracing opportunities.

‘If you have a dream, just think positively,’ she said, offering words of encouragement. ‘Never be afraid to dream.’